On the northern side of the small Greek Island of Ikaria is the Osias Theoktistis Monastery. The architecture of the small monastery is a traditional church, like most of the other ones located on this beautiful island. However, the small chapel, Theoskepasti, located just next door, has the most unique architecture. Built into a cave underneath a large, flat rock, from the outside, the Theoskepasti chapel looks more akin to a mushroom house than a place of worship. It is an absolute gem to see!
The Osias Theoktistis Monastery
Though an inscription at the monastery states that it was established in 1688, it is believed that the Osias Theoktistis Monastery was established somewhat earlier during the 16th or even 15th century. It was founded by a monk named Meletios. The main building was the church where the monks would gather to worship. It’s architectural style is that of a barrel-vaulted basilica. Today, visitors who are able to access in the interior will find that the church is decorated with the Cretan school style of art (Post-Byzantine) painted frescoes of icons. It is believed that the frescoes were painted around 1688 by an artist named either Pantelis Hatzis or Chatzis Pantelis Anagnostou from the island of Chios, and his assistant. The iconostasis, or wall of icons, at the front of the church were likely created around approximately 1910 by Greek refugees from Smyrni, renamed to Izmir, Turkey.
During its prime, over 100 monks worshiped here. This monastery was running until 1982 when the last nuns left. Today, several people act as caretakers and open the doors for pilgrims and curious visitors. They also maintain a small cafe within the church where you can buy coffee and donuts as well as herbs and spices.
Saint Theoktistis
The Theoktistis Monastery is dedicated to Osias Theoktistis from Molyvos, Lesvos who is a saint both in the Catholic Church and in the Eastern Orthodox Church. She is a patroness saint of Ikaria She was born in the early 9th century in the town of Mithymna (before 1919, it was known as Molyvos) on the island of Lesbos, Greece. She was orphaned as a child and raised in a monastery on Lesbob. When she was 18 years old, she and several other people were captured by Saracen raiders, but she was able to escape them on the island of Paros. She remained in Paros for the rest of her life. A hunter who had befriended her shortly before her death, buried her but took her hand with him as a relic. The winds picked up and didn’t allow him to leave the island until he buried her hand with her.
The hunter left the island and told Theoktistis’s story to Symeon, a hermit, who retold her story to Niketas Magistros. In 920 A.D., Magistros wrote the Life of Theoktiste, though he merged Theoktistis’s story with that of Mary of Egypt.
Saint Theoktistis is commemorated every year on her feast day at the monastery on November 9th.
The Theosképastē or Theoskepasti Chapel
Just a short walk from the Theoktistis Monastery up a small flight of stairs is the Theoskepasti Chapel. Theoskepasti translates into a roof provided by God. This chapel was built into a cave that sits beneath a large rock. This tiny place of worship was founded after the locals found the remains of Saint Osias Theoktistis in a crypt behind the church. They moved her remains to a nearby cave for internment and built a chapel around it.
The interior of the Theoskepasti chapel is covered with icons. The earliest icons and a wood carved mantle date to approximately 1894.
Additional buildings
As this was a working hermitage for a number of centuries, there are other spaces where the hermits lived and spent their time that visitors can see. There is an open building that acts as a small museum, showing visitors how the Ikarians used to live, until not that long ago.
Where is it Located?
The Theoktistis Monastery and Theoskepasti Chapel are located just west of the small village of Pigi, near Kampos, in northern Ikaria, Greece. It is difficult to find, so you might want to stop somewhere for some delicious Greek coffee and ask the locals!