Nestled away in northeastern Arizona lies the spectacular Canyon de Chelly National Monument. This extensive canyon was cut by the tributaries of the Chinle Creek which has shaped and formed the landscape over thousands of years to the way we see it today. Located entirely within the bounds of the Navajo Nation near the border of New Mexico, Canyon de Chelly, pronounced Canyon “de-shay”, is a wonder to see.

skull_rock_canyon_de_chelly — Do you see the skeleton in the rock, because I definitely do!

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

History

Canyon de Chelly is one of the longest continuously occupied areas of the country. High canyon walls afforded its earliest inhabitants natural protection and the stream deposits over the years created fertile soil perfect for farming.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona — The stream waters have created a fertile landscape within the desert.

As far as we know, the first occupants of the canyon were the Ancestral Puebloans who moved into the region as far back as 2000 BC, but possibly even earlier. Though they weren’t sedentary at the time, they would seasonally occupy the area and utilize the abundance of resources. By approximately 200 BC, more permanent settlers occupied the area. By 700 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans of this period, also referred to as the Anasazi, started building more lofty permanent structures out of adobe bricks and stones. These permanent structures are the cliff dwellings that lay underneath the overhanging stone which are remarkably still standing today, thanks to the dry heat of the climate here.

cliff_dwelling_canyon_de_chelly — If you look closely, you can see cliff dwellings are tucked away in small pockets within the rock.

Around the 1300s, as elsewhere nearby and for unknown reasons, the Puebloans migrated out of the canyon south to the Rio Grande Valley. The canyon wasn’t vacant long and the Hopi people, descendents of the Puebloans, soon moved into the canyons to farm the rich lands. The Hopi remained from 1300s to the 1700s. After the Hopi migrated out, the area was then settled by the Navajo who are still living and farming the canyonlands today.

As with many of the beautiful and culturally rich places in the United States, there is a dark side to the history here. In 1805, it was invaded by Lieutenant Antonio Narbona, a Spanish soldier who later served as the governor of New Mexico from 1825 to 1827. Today, this invasion is referred to as the massacre of 1805, as most of the Navajo men were away hunting at the time so those that were killed were mostly women, old men, and children. Visitors can see the setting of this dark story at Massacre Cave Overlook.

Administrative History

Canyon de Chelly was formally established within the National Park Service in 1931 by President Hoover as a means to protect the archaeological heritage. In 1970, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Canyon de Chelly is the only National Monument that is not federally owned. As it is entirely within the bounds of the Navajo Nation, is it owned and run by the Navajo Tribal Trust of the Navajo Nation in partnership with the National Park Service.

White House Ruins

The White House Ruins is accessible from a hiking trail off the South Rim Drive. The White House is a cliff dwelling that was named after the white plaster that used to adorn the adobe structures, some of which is still present. Archaeologists have used dendrochronology to date the occupancy of this structure to 1060-1275 AD. About 100 people are believed to have lived here.

Mummy Cave

Just south of the Massacre Cave Overlook sits the Mummy Cave. This cliff dwelling was occupied from around 300 AD to at least the 1300s, as dated by the wooden beams in some of the structures. It is believed that about this occupation supported around 75 individuals with between 45 and 70 rooms constructed over the lifetime of the settlement. Many of the structures had multiple levels.

Visit

Canyon de Chelly is such a culturally rich place to visit. There is an abundance of archaeological remains and cliff dwellings dotting the landscape. Visitors can tour the lands by car or by foot, or by horse for that matter but they must be accompanied by either a Navajo guide or a park ranger. Branching away east from the Visitor’s Center is the North Rim Drive and the South Rim Drive. Each route has its own overlooks with sites to see. The White House Trail hiking trail off of the South Rim Drive is the only trail that visitors can walk unaccompanied.

The North Rim Drive provides access to the Mummy Cave Overlook, Antelope House Overlook, and Massacre Cave Overlook. The South Rim Drive provides access to the White House Overlook and Spider Rock Overlook.

Where is it located

Canyon de Chelly is located in northeastern Arizona. The visitor’s center is located in the western region of the park, and can be accessed from Route 7, just 1 mile east from Chinley, Arizona.

Maps

There is a wonderful map overview of Canyon de Chelly available right here.