When the plane touched down, my husband and I found ourselves in a Tolkien-esque environment, with jaw dropping cliff faces, blue ocean all around us, and the sun shining bright. It was our first time visiting the Faroe Islands, this gorgeous group of islands in the North Atlantic between Iceland and Scotland. The Faroes are populated with fishermen, captains, the most lovely, down to earth, salty people, and sheep. We had one of the best travel experiences of our lives here.
The Faroe Islands
I really do love the Faroe Islands and am hesitant to write this, if only to try and keep it my little secret. Everything about the country has such a warm feeling to it. People here are such hearty folk and they have wide open hearts. There was a genuineness of character that, this day in age, seems to be lacking elsewhere. There is a sense of community here that is reminiscent to me about how life must have felt like in the United States back in the 1930s. You really care about everyone in your community because you depend on each other to work through life’s obstacles.
First and Lasting Impressions
The following recants my first and lasting impressions of this beautiful country. This country was so unique and like no other. I have such wonderful memories of my trip here, that it keeps this country on the top of my list of places to return to. This time to show it to my son.
Money Exchange
When we first landed, we were trying to exchange our currency once we landed at Vágar Airport, but there was facility at the airport. Thank goodness we were able to take out some money at the ATM. (Now, that’s the only way I purchase foreign currency). We threw our backpacks on and booked it to the nearest town, Sandavágur, so we could try and get some Faroese money before the bank closed. The Faroes islands are part of the Danish realm, but are self-governing in most matters. The currency here is the Faroese króna which is tied directly to the Danish króna.
Our first walk
Our walk to the bank was incredible. We had just landed in some exotic and foreign location and it felt like it! With our jaws on the ground, we tried to focus on finding the bank, though our thoughts kept wandering back to the immense storybook setting that we found ourselves in.
When we entered the bank, I tried to explain to the teller what I needed. (I don’t speak Faroese, but the Faroese speak multiple languages! Most I asked could list five different languages that they knew). I couldn’t contain myself anymore and just gushed about how beautiful his country was. He cracked a smile, but seemed a bit embarrassed for me. I was also quite embarrassed but couldn’t help myself. The teller gave me a very polite thank you. After exchanging our money just before the bank closed, we checked into our bed and breakfast and walked into downtown Sandavágur.
Sandavágur
Sandavágur was what I imagine a small Swiss town in the Alps would have been like in the 1800s. (All my imaginings were the ones that occurred to me during my trip, so they are quite authentic!) Sandavágur is a gorgeous, clean, brightly colored town that is the closest municipality near Vágar airport. Complete with grass roofs and sheep. There is a very small population here, just 768 according to this site.
What struck my husband and I was that there weren’t large advertisements anywhere. No billboards, no neon signs. We struggled to find the town’s grocery store as it looked just like another house. The lack of commercialism in this town, and in the Faroe Islands in general, is such a break from all the usual stimulus your brain is constantly throttled with. I felt as if this lack of stimulus allowed you more room to breath in your brand new surroundings.
Summer months
We were visiting in the beginning of July when the summer days have approximately 20 hours of daylight and night never really settles in. Though we didn’t see very many people, we did see some children running around completely unattended (just like when I was a kid), and some men working on the roofs of their houses, patching up weak spots with tar and making sure that the grass roofs were watered. We meandered around town, following well-trodden sheep paths out to views along the waterway.
Runestone and WWII memories at Sandavágur Church
Completing our first day in the Faroe Islands was a visit to the iconic red-roofed Sandavágur Church in the middle of town. A 13th century runestone stands prominently displayed in the front of the church. This stone catalogues the first settler in the area as Torkil Onandarson from Norway.
Up on the wall in the back, there is a framed letter dating to September 3rd, 1943. This hand-written letter was from WWII British officers who had been stationed at Vágur in the Faroe Islands during the war. It reads “we came as foreigners and complete strangers – we go now as good friends and with the happiest of memories which will remain with us while life lasts.” It closes with “We hope and pray that GOD in his Great Goodness will shower His Blessings upon you all in the years to come and that when this Great War ends we shall meet again.” Beautiful.
First and Lasting Impressions
I titled this first and lasting impressions because, though we spent just over a week here and saw so many beautiful things and met so many wonderful people, when I think back on the Faroes, I think of that first day when we landed in that Tolkien-esque world. I think of the jaw-dropping cliffs, the ocean all around, the green grass covered hills. When I think back on the Faroes, I am filled with the same wonderment that filled me that moment I walked off the plane.
Where is it Located?
The Faroe Islands are located in the north Atlantic, right in between Iceland and Scotland. You can get here by plane or boat. We took a flight on Atlantic Airways, the Faroese airline, from Reykjavík, Iceland.