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Mhamid, the Old and New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Entering the old village of Mhamid.

The village of Mhamid is located in the southeastern part of Morocco, on the edge of the Sahara Desert.  It’s coveted spot in the more lush Drâa Valley of the Zagora province,  was the last stop for caravans before crossing the desert sands.  We stopped by Mhamid and Mhamid Bali (the old location of the town) to look at the kasbahs, ride some camels, drink some tea, talk with the locals, and had a wonderful time!

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Our friendly camels wait patiently as we take a look around the old kasbah.

Mhamid

Mhamid, once known as Taragalte, was home to a mix of local Berbers and tribes from the desert.   In 1990, the villagers moved from the old kasbah in Mhamid Bali, what it is known as today, to a new location 2 kilometers away on the north side of the River Drâa (Oued Drâa).  

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Looking out over the River Drâa. This area felt like Africa.

This new location is called Mhamid Jdid or Mhamid El Ghizlane (the plains of gazelles).  The old and new town on either side of the river make up the town of Mhamid.  Today, Mhamid is a jumping off point for visitors to see the Saharan Dunes, and often, tours will take them to Mhamid Bali to see the old way of life.

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Walking through the kasbah at Mhamid Bali with our guide.

Timbuktu

Mhamid has been an important town for thousands of years.  On the edge of the Saharan desert, it was the jumping off point for caravans travelling south along the famed trade route from Timbuktu in the present day country of Mali.  Traders would travel south carrying salt for slaves, ivory, and gold.  One way, the trip would take about three weeks traveling by camel.  Signs still present today in Mhamid attest to and highlight the importance of the old trade route.  

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
The sign in our hotel pointing the way to Timbuktu speaks to the historical and cultural significance of that caravan trade route.

Mhamid Bali

After the villagers of the old kasbah of Mhamid Bali, which is the old town, moved to the other side of the river, the old kasbah was then settled by Africans who had moved into the area from the Sudan.  We visited Mhamid Bali just south of the River Drâa.  After Morocco feeling very Arabic and Mediterranean overall, this area felt very African.  

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Historically, at Mhamid Bali, the villagers cultivated palm groves. As you can see, they still grow them today.

Historically, the settlers here cultivated palm groves.  There is a very old irrigation system in Mhamid Bali that is still in use today.  The locals built their homes with clay, wood, and palm leaves.  Though many of the buildings seem in disrepair, there is a brand new mosque.  

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
Though Mhamid Bali is the old town location, it is still occupied today, as the brand new mosque attests to.

Today, in addition to the palm groves, the inhabitants graze their cattle for subsistence farming, as well as cultivate dates that can be purchased across the country and are quite delicious.  We met some friendly children playing football (for my fellow Americans, soccer) and gave them neosporin and a band-aid for a wound that one of them had.

Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
The old kasbah was constructed with adobe clay, wood, and palm leaves.
Mhamid, the Old and the New, in the Drâa River Valley of Morocco
The irrigation system at Mhamid Bali takes full advantage of the River Drâa to help in times when the river runs dry.

Where is it Located?

Mhamid is located at the southern terminus of Route N9.  It is about a 4 and half hour drive south east from Ouarzazate.  Mhamid Bali is located just south of the main village of Mhamid today, on the south side of the River Drâa.

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