When we booked our trip to Morocco, we knew that we wanted to visit Marrakesh.  Not only because of the song, “Marrakesh Express” by Crosby, Stills, and Nash, or the wonderful book, “The Drifters” by James Michener, but because of this lovely little book I read in school titled “Reflections on Fieldwork in Morocco” by Paul Rabinow.  Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square in the old part of the city where Marrakesh truly comes to life.  Here, you can experience the sights and smells of all of Morocco into one small condensed area.  It is a sensory overload in the most fantastic way!

Jemaa el-Fnaa

Jemaa el-Fnaa goes by many variations (Jamaa el Fna, Djema el-Fna, Djema el-Fnaa).  There are several theories as to the origin of the name, but it most likely refers to the location as a square in front of a congregation or mosque.  Marrakesh was founded in the late 1000s, and Jemaa el-Fnaa has been part of the city since its earliest days.  The famous winding souk markets, where you can buy anything your heart desires, run along the northwest edge of the square.  Jemaa el-Fna is a destination for both locals and tourists alike.

The sights and smells of Jemaa el-Fnaa are what I remember the most.  In the daytime there are snack stands, street performers, and people peddling their goods.  Although the animals are protected now, you can still see snake charmers charm their cobras and vipers.  Understandable, this is a dying tradition.  

Additionally, for a small fee, you can handle mischievous Barbary macaque apes, another dying tradition to the benefit of these smart creatures.  

In the evening, the food stalls set up and the place gets packed.  The aromas are deliciously strong and spicy with a wide variety of colors to match the smells.  I highly recommend eating dinner at least once in the square.  The food is cheap, fresh, and delicious.  Moroccan food in general is so aromatic, you can only imagine the smell of hundreds of food booths lined up side by side. With the fading light, the street performers become more outspoken, louder, and larger than life.  There are singers, storytellers, magicians, and musicians.

Where is it Located?

Jemaa el-Fna is located in the Medina (old city) of Marrakesh, Morocco, near where Rue Koutoubia meets Riad Zitoun Lakdim.